tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84088955686365623792024-03-13T11:17:24.652-04:00Boca Bearings WorkshopAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07816174744690253558noreply@blogger.comBlogger153125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-1190262374235072342018-07-28T01:06:00.001-04:002018-07-28T01:06:33.051-04:00<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-49810071601281126152018-07-26T04:24:00.003-04:002018-07-26T04:25:02.511-04:00RC Boat Project: Update 2The PLA hull was sanded down starting with a heavier P150 grit sandpaper. After that I switched to P220 and finally P320 to get the hull as smooth as possible. After I started sanding I soon realized that PLA is much less forgiving then I realized. It took approximately 3 hours to sand the PLA to a desirable smooth surface as see in figure 1.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><i>Figure 1: Sanded PLA hull. Roughness can still be seen.</i><br />
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Once the hull was cleaned of any dust and debris the next step was applying a thin layer (no thicker than 1/16 inch) of “3M Acryl-Green Spot Putty” as seen in figure 2. This was done to fill in any imperfections left on the hull. The putty was applied using two pieces of construction paper which allowed some flexibility for the curvature of the hull. A respirator was also used to combat the intense odor of the putty (application should be done in a well ventilated area).<br />
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<i>Figure 2: Spreading green putty over hull.</i><br />
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After I let the putty dry for 2 hours (directions only say 15 minutes) it was time to sand the hull again. Just like the first time, I started with a heavier P150 grit and worked up to a finer P320. The second sanding process took about 2 hours in order to get the surface where I wanted it. Minimal blemishes need to be buffed out, but so far I am very happy with the way the hull has turned out.<br />
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-Ryan K.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-59708879686782727532018-07-20T19:08:00.000-04:002018-07-20T19:08:43.524-04:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 15Not much was done on my personal project this week because the group go kart took priority. However, the first half of the hull was printed and glued together with hub. More components were ordered so the pressure vessel and rods can start being assembled and machined. I printed the hull in safety orange, so you can see it clearly in the water.<br />
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<b>Go Kart Project</b><br />
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For the go kart more of the frame was welded together and then tested to make sure it could take the load of a person sitting on it. The back-drive shaft and the motor where mounted into place and adjustments where made to make sure everything was level and the chain was tight. A few components had to have the mounting holes extended. The electronics where hooked and the back wheels did successfully spin. The chain and gear placement were adjusted some more, and the break plate was moved into position.<br />
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-Michael D.<br />
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<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-88952528829821734752018-07-20T01:59:00.004-04:002018-07-20T02:00:15.535-04:00Power Wheels Racer 2.0: Update 2This week in the workshop we focused on the electronics for the electric kart. After spending over a week trying to diagnose and fix whatever caused our first ESC to not work we decided to purchase another unit (Link here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DB0DNO6/). Once it was here I referred to the wiring diagram supplied by the seller for the hookup guide.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>To save time and stop me from cutting wires unnecessarily I decided to take advantage of the standard ring terminals used on the ESC. I cut off the connectors I had already soldered on the old esc and crimped on ring terminals on the ends. It looks a tad messy, but everything is secure and protected from potential shorts. Additionally, all this wiring is temporary and once everything finds its final mounting position on the frame.<br />
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With everything wired up and plugged into our new (old) 48v battery pack I attached a spare throttle from last years build. Unfortunately, it didn’t work. I started checking voltages on the throttle and noticed it was seemingly stuck at full throttle, so I removed it and tried another spare and that worked fine. The motor spins and seems to be functioning perfectly. I’ll need to use the built-in calibration to program the ESC but that’ll wait until we select a final throttle mechanism and get the frame mocked together. I was curious about the speed of rotation, so I quickly made a 3D printable part to attach to the motor shaft.<br />
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The idea here was to film the piece rotating with my phone’s 240fps slow motion video and then go frame by frame until one rotation had passed and the calculate the RPM based on that. Once I took the video I found that even at 240fps the motor spun much too quickly for my camera to clearly discern a single rotation. Even still I estimated that the motor was spinning at about 2800 RPM which is much too high, and I don’t think it is at all accurate.<br />
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Next steps for the car will be to finish welding up the frame and mount the electronics in their final positions and get the steering built. Once that’s through and we will be discussing the body of the car which will be made of fiberglass.<br />
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-AndrewAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-39693031698609930732018-07-06T19:53:00.002-04:002018-07-06T20:10:53.750-04:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 14Some final adjustments were made to the hull of the sub. Using Solid works the hull was thickened for strength and and holes were added for the fin rods and mounting plate that hold the two halves of the shell together. The Arduino Uno, battery, and motor holder were 3D printed along with the propeller and end caps for the pressure vessel. The LSM303DLHC compass arrived and the pins were soldered on. Now code can be written and tested for finding the heading and speed.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><b>Go Kart Project</b><br />
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I finished some of the 3D modeling and ran simulations for the weight of a human sitting in the chair. The test told me that the frame will hold a person with no deformation. Next I stripped the current car down to its chassis and marked out the cutting locations. Finally, Ryan and I cut the frame.<br />
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-Michael D.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-50831811588961380472018-07-02T17:13:00.002-04:002018-07-02T17:14:15.199-04:00Power Wheels Racer 2.0: Update 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Over the past several months us here at The Workshop have been designing and fabricating the next generation of go-kart for our entry into this year’s Power Racing Series event at the Orlando Maker Faire. During last year’s event we found the old kart to simply be too big, too unwieldy, and too slow. Our aim with the new kart was to improve on these three aspects. First, a new frame was designed and welded together. WE salvaged certain parts of the old kart including the steering system and drive shaft but upgraded them with a full wheel in the front (instead of the old handle) and a 48V brushless motor (instead of the old 36V Brushed one). We hoped that the increase in voltage and switch to brushless would allow the kart performance to stay the same or increase while also increasing our run time.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Speaking of run time, we decided to build a custom battery pack using some li-ion 18650 cells purchased on ebay. That pack was assembled using the Vruzend DIY battery kit. The kit worked fantastic and after a few days we had a new battery the gave us the 48V with increased capacity to help achieve our goals. Importantly this battery only needed one charger vs our last which required 3 batteries to be separately charged and took quite some time.<br />
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After selecting our tires and other miscellaneous parts we were able to assemble the kart and begin testing of the system. This is where I discovered a plethora of issues and oversights that ultimately means the kart will be remade.<br />
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The Frame</h4>
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The frame of the kart is significantly warped. Once we put the tires on the ground the front passenger side tire didn’t contact the ground and spun freely on the ground. If we pushed it down to contact the floor the rear driver side tire lifted up and spun freely.<br />
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The frame is too long. Due to its length the turning radius is also too large ad wont be suitable for the style of track it’ll be raced on.<br />
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The Brakes</h4>
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While the brakes on the kart work (and work well at that) the brake pedal is no good and the brake caliper itself contacts the rear tire and will destroy it when we are racing with shifting weights on the tires causing them to expand.<br />
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Motor Gear Ratio</h4>
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To our knowledge the combination of sprockets used on the kart gave it a 6:1 gear ratio. Our motor, under no load, is rated to 1800 RPM which means we’d be getting about 600 RPM in a best-case scenario.<br />
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The Battery</h4>
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The DIY batter does put out 48V as we needed but it seems to be incapable of providing the current we need for the system. Double checking the system with a store bought lipo battery confirmed the issue.<br />
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The ESC</h4>
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I have no idea why this doesn’t work, and it makes me lose sleep at night.<br />
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The Steering</h4>
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It doesn’t work.<br />
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-AndrewAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-48412847969069032502018-06-29T17:21:00.000-04:002018-06-29T17:22:13.300-04:00Electric Skateboard Project Update 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PVa2BHlIxBM/WzaiaIvNc8I/AAAAAAAAAsU/WuQSW5OBMtkh6HyRZMu8aWc0oF-Afs3ugCLcBGAs/s1600/Electric%2BSkateboard%2B2-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="985" data-original-width="1327" height="237" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PVa2BHlIxBM/WzaiaIvNc8I/AAAAAAAAAsU/WuQSW5OBMtkh6HyRZMu8aWc0oF-Afs3ugCLcBGAs/s320/Electric%2BSkateboard%2B2-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Quick update to the skateboard! In an effort to diagnose issues with another project I needed to salvage some known working parts from something and that turned into me pulling all the electronics out of the electric skateboard. After I was finished with the electronics, I decided to put it all back together but as soon as I looked at the old box full of hot glue, pieces of Velcro, and plastic shavings I decided to remake the box. I took another project box, same as before, and began by taking measurements of the box’s wall and also the three bullet connectors on the esc. I went into Fusion360 and made a bracket to hold the connectors on the inside and outside out the box. The inside bracket clamps down onto the bullet connectors locking the in place and preventing them from sliding around when I try to plug them in.<br />
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For the outside connector all I needed was a snug fit and a way to keep them in place on the box.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hK5O0Em_K0/WzaiaEVp0SI/AAAAAAAAAsY/raafeBi9_-AMtnifKLajWk3RjqFZTRaWQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Electric%2BSkateboard%2B2-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="994" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4hK5O0Em_K0/WzaiaEVp0SI/AAAAAAAAAsY/raafeBi9_-AMtnifKLajWk3RjqFZTRaWQCEwYBhgL/s320/Electric%2BSkateboard%2B2-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After drilling holes in the box I was able to securely assemble these connectors in place resulting in a significantly cleaner look and feel to the box.<br />
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-AndrewAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-7341613011204622772018-06-27T15:24:00.001-04:002018-06-27T15:24:44.060-04:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MFJJHMffFb4/WzPijYtSaGI/AAAAAAAAArU/rhdJ9wzV8qg7yQ8YDfNm8I_ZfIuslv1GQCLcBGAs/s1600/Weekly%2B13-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1425" height="170" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MFJJHMffFb4/WzPijYtSaGI/AAAAAAAAArU/rhdJ9wzV8qg7yQ8YDfNm8I_ZfIuslv1GQCLcBGAs/s320/Weekly%2B13-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This week I worked on the 3D model for my personal project. The pressure vessel at the center of the design is based from the dimensions of the Arduino Uno microcontroller. The groove in the end caps for the O-ring seals was dimensioned around the #144 O-ring see the parker O-ring manual for more detail. To get the U brackets and fins to turn DC moors with 270 rpm will be hooked up from the pressure vessel and connected with a series of rods and universal joints. The rods in the universal joint will be threaded and when the dc motor spins the u bracket will rise or lower on the rod and pivoted about the fin rods. The universal joints compensate for this pivoted so that the U brackets have a full range of motion of 15 degrees. To seal the rods and stop eater from getting into the pressure vessel 6mm rotary seals are placed into the end cap with the shafts running through it. The drive shaft with the propeller also goes through bearings once they leave the pressure vessel as well as in the back hub. This allows for support of the shafts as well has keeping the rods turning. The Hub was 3D printed and Fins are on the printer.<br />
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<b>Wire Holder</b><br />
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I also made a holder for soldering and small electrical wire. This design was based of similar products found on Amazon but adjusted for the diameters and lengths of the spools of the smaller wires. There are three rows, and each can hold 3 spools. The entire thing was modeled on Solid works and 3D printed.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vnefk2YfGXA/WzPijvfCcfI/AAAAAAAAAr4/8ec0pTMFNS0kZmbm8AX69_Fqq9symYCMACEwYBhgL/s1600/Weekly%2B13-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="667" data-original-width="888" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vnefk2YfGXA/WzPijvfCcfI/AAAAAAAAAr4/8ec0pTMFNS0kZmbm8AX69_Fqq9symYCMACEwYBhgL/s320/Weekly%2B13-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Filament Holder</b><br />
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As a team project we created a unit that tucks under a table and hold the filament for our 3D printers. It is made from wood and was built using a table saw and drill. It has 3 rows and hold around 60 spools.<br />
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<b>Go Kart Project</b><br />
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I have been working on making a smaller version of our current Go kart design to make it lighter and distribute the weight more evenly. This will make it easier for the motor to turn the wheels and take less energy which means more speed. I am currently making a solid works model that can do the full range of motion of the car. This will allow for steering to be fully tested for collisions and effectiveness with out having to build it.<br />
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-Michael D.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-66482283264355281992018-06-26T17:30:00.001-04:002018-06-26T17:32:59.001-04:00RC Boat Introduction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TaPBd_HrN_8/WzKtgp_fhVI/AAAAAAAAAq4/c96R9jgQmXQHyakvzBS8Sr6cVqgQkkwYgCLcBGAs/s1600/RC%2BBoat%2B1-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="1033" height="160" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TaPBd_HrN_8/WzKtgp_fhVI/AAAAAAAAAq4/c96R9jgQmXQHyakvzBS8Sr6cVqgQkkwYgCLcBGAs/s320/RC%2BBoat%2B1-1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I have decided to start on a project to design, fabricate and test a fully functional remote controlled (RC) boat inspired by a 1940’s Chris-Craft. The goal is to be able to remain stable and running for approximately 10 – 15 minutes on a battery pack. This boat will be designed as a semi-displacement hull which will allow it to operate more smoothly at slower speeds. The boat will be engineered with stability and maneuverability in mind. This being said, the boat will be a small scale model of an American classic that can be enjoyed by people of any age, whether it’s enjoyed in a pool, lake or ocean. The motor and other electrical components will be salvaged and modified from a previous RC boat/cars. The hull will be 3D-printed from PLA. Its propulsion will be a single electric motor and propeller that will be directed by a large rudder at the stern. The propeller shaft will be fitted with two small ceramic bearings to insure minimal friction and stress on the electric motor.<br />
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Goals:</h4>
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<ul>
<li>Operational by a single person</li>
<li>10 – 15 minute (minimum) battery life</li>
<li>Stability in minimal seas</li>
<li>Maneuverability</li>
<li>Corrosion resistant</li>
<li>Approximate top speed of 5 mph</li>
</ul>
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<h4>
Budget:</h4>
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<ul>
<li>Electric Motor (In House)</li>
<li>Hull (PLA) In House ($10)</li>
<li>Receiver/transmitter (In House)</li>
<li>Strut and rudder $25</li>
<li>Propeller $20</li>
<li>Drive shaft $8</li>
<li>Bearings (In House)</li>
<li>Radio (In House)</li>
<li>Misc. $30</li>
</ul>
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<b>Total $83</b><br />
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Timeline:</h4>
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June: Research, preliminary 3D-CAD design development, 3D printing.<br />
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July (18th – 31st): Finalize design, 3D printing, order parts.<br />
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August (1st – 10th): Assemble electrical and mechanical components, trouble shooting, testing.<br />
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August (13th – 17th): Final testing and finishing.<br />
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-Ryan K.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-10612215008687876382018-06-22T23:29:00.003-04:002018-06-22T23:29:45.157-04:00Autonomous Submarine Introduction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-10L44nN0VNQ/Wy2-kh_682I/AAAAAAAAAqU/X2Vpt5KEqyURYQuN7SHDHOtzKF11HzzpgCLcBGAs/s1600/Automonous%2BSubmarine%2B1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-10L44nN0VNQ/Wy2-kh_682I/AAAAAAAAAqU/X2Vpt5KEqyURYQuN7SHDHOtzKF11HzzpgCLcBGAs/s320/Automonous%2BSubmarine%2B1-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The objective of this project is to fabricate and test an autonomous scale model of the FAU human powered submarine. That can replicate the course laid out by the International Submarine Race (ISR) and the European International Submarine Races (EISR). <br /><a name='more'></a>Its purpose is to create a scale model of the human powered submarine at Florida Atlantic University. This model will allow for testing of different fin, propeller and hull designs without having to make the full-scale product then waiting to test in the ocean with a team of 5. The completed model it will be able to run in a 24-foot by 26-foot pool. To replicate the human input the propeller and fins will be powered by DC motors and controlled using an Arduino Uno. This project will allow for more designs to be tested and data collected which will increase the performance of the FAU submarine team. This project will have and test 6 ceramic bearings to see how they perform submerged and under a load force produced by the fins. <br /><br /><b>Goals: </b><br /><ul>
<li>Easliy removable hull from the main pressure vessel</li>
<li>The cability to keep its self strait</li>
<li>The cability to perform a U-turn</li>
<li>Stay within the confines of the test area</li>
<li>Only needing 1-2 people to test</li>
<li>Keeping the model under 2 feet long</li>
<li>3D printed fins, propeller, and hull</li>
<li>Removable nose cone</li>
</ul>
<b>Stretch Goals:</b><br /><ul>
<li>Capability to perform a Slalom</li>
<li>Record speed</li>
<li>Record pressure at nose</li>
<li>Fiberglass hull</li>
</ul>
<b>Estimated Cost:</b><br /><ul>
<li>Arduino Uno: $22.00</li>
<li>Plastic endcaps: $20.00</li>
<li>Housing: $32.00</li>
<li>3x DC motors: $30.00</li>
<li>Compass: $16.98</li>
<li>Aluminum for u-brackets: $5.15</li>
<li>Aluminum rod: $4.87</li>
<li>6 volt battery pack Battery: $10.00</li>
<li>O-rings: $10.00</li>
<li>Hardware: $25.00</li>
<li>Mounting rods: $5.00</li>
<li>U-Joint x3: $48.00</li>
</ul>
<b>Total: $219</b><br /><br /><b>Time Line:</b><br /><ul>
<li>June 18th Design finalized</li>
<li>June 19th- 29th Mechanical Fabrication Done</li>
<li>July 17th-29th Electrical Done and Tested</li>
<li>August 1st-17th Testing and Fixes</li>
</ul>
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-Michael D.</div>
Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-6972497940735291882018-05-21T23:51:00.003-04:002018-05-21T23:51:45.856-04:00SECME Mouse Trap Car RacingKurtis, a member of the Boca Bearing Workshop Internship program, is also a participant in the Southeastern Consortium for Minorities in Engineering Mouse Trap Car Competition. Additional information on this program can be found <a href="http://secmeinc.wixsite.com/secme" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Our SECME mousetrap car team was at a roadblock with our car. We had used 3D printing to make the chassis of the car but the axles spun very slow and poorly when making direct contact with the plastic surface so we needed help. So we turned to bearings. This decision ended up benefiting our team greatly, and eventually taking us to first place in the local SECME competition.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPom4oZE7KA/WwOTn9H-XDI/AAAAAAAAApM/M4BzaF8BDps01ysIzHoDfcg1j02omQSdQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mousetrap%2BCar%2B1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="461" data-original-width="692" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPom4oZE7KA/WwOTn9H-XDI/AAAAAAAAApM/M4BzaF8BDps01ysIzHoDfcg1j02omQSdQCEwYBhgL/s320/Mousetrap%2BCar%2B1-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our team started with stainless steel bearings, which were lightweight and relatively inexpensive. They worked great and spun for a good long time but we wanted to see if our car was capable of even more. After some research, the decision was pretty easy. Ceramic bearings were going to be the way to go. They were a little heavier but our hope was that the added distance and speed would make up for the minuscule jump in weight. Thanks to Boca Bearings we were able to acquire very high quality, higher speed, near friction-free bearings. These new bearings will hopefully lead our car to victory and beyond at the upcoming national competition.<br />
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-KurtisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-31330958241297966812018-05-03T20:38:00.000-04:002018-05-10T15:23:57.541-04:003D Printed Camaro LS3 V8 EngineThe printing of the engine block was the biggest print we’d ever attempted, by far. At 20 percent infill it took just over 79 hours to complete.<br />
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This is the link to the model I used: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1911808">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1911808</a><br />
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The designer of the engine model, Eric Harrell partnered with MakerX to create a hardware kit that contains all of the hardware needed to build the engine. It contains the motor, speed control, power supply, all of the hardware, the metal rods, the valve springs, the magnets, and the timing belt. The project would have been much more difficult without this, I highly recommend it. The price was $85, well worth it if you want to build this engine. The kit also comes with all of the bearings you need, but I left those out and used some dry ceramic hybrids: SMR6701C-YZZ (12x18x4) and SMR6700C-YZZ (10x15x4). I noticed a huge difference in how freely the crankshaft spins.<br />
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Printing the cylinder heads took about 19 hours each.<br />
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We printed all of the pistons and connecting rods in one print, this is in gray PLA, the block and heads are in silver. This gives it a bit of contrast.<br />
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The total print time for all of the printed parts was about 200 hours. Overall the project took about a month or so from start to finish.<br />
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-BryanAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-16720056048994882542018-05-01T23:06:00.001-04:002018-05-01T23:07:33.552-04:00Iron Man Helmet Project - Part 1<br />
In celebration of Marvel’s third Avengers movie I decided it would be a great time to make something from one of my favorite characters in the MCU, Iron Man. I started out by downloading the helmet’s STL files provided on Thingiverse (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1779274">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1779274</a>). I then loaded each helmet piece into Simplify3D and began slicing each part. This version of the helmet has eight parts, plus a ninth print for hardware mounts if you’d like to motorize the helmet. I printed everything at a layer height of .15mm and at 10% infill and made sure to use a brim since most parts have a small surface area on the build plate. Importantly, I decided to increase the number of perimeter layers so that I would accidentally sand down the print to infill later. This had the consequence of essentially turning the prints into 100% infill, but they came out great and feel solid. I printed everything in a gray color filament to save time painting later on but any color, or combination of colors, is fine.<br />
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Next, I used duct tape to piece everything together and to check fit. It turned out that the helmet opening was much too small to fit my head into, so to fix this issue I decided to make a single piece from the back of the head connect with magnets to allow my head to fit inside. I verified that this would work by removing that piece and placing on my head.</div>
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Next, I began gluing the helmet together. I used CA Glue and Accelerator for this part. I cut some tabs out of some pieces of laminated paper (so it wouldn’t absorb all the glue) and glue them to the parts (on the inside to hide them) on one edge. I then applied glue to the exposed piece of the tab and connect the two printed parts together at that point. This allowed me to anchor them in the correct place. With the two halves attached at a point I ran glue down the seam and carefully separated the halves and stuck them back together ensuring a tight fit. I then sprayed accelerant on the seam to instantly cure the glue. I repeated the process for all the piece that needed to be permanently attached.<br />
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After printing everything I found another model that I liked more (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260152">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260152</a>) so I wont be going over any electronics in this build. This helmet I’m going to focus on learning the process of post processing these prints. I have different epoxies, body fillers, sandpaper, and paints that I need to experiment, so the next part of this post will cover those topics. For now, I’ll leave you with a sneak peak of what’s to come for this project, enjoy!<br />
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Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-20591682826722288382018-04-10T17:34:00.004-04:002018-04-10T17:35:59.788-04:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 12It has been some time since we have updated you all, but we have been working on a number of projects lately. So, the first project that I will be discussing is the Power Wheels project car. Structurally, the Power Wheels car is ready for its first test drive. I finished welding the steering column more into place so that it was more linear with the chassis. I also welded the bracket for the steering wheel onto the shaft of the steering column.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>So now the steering wheel is firmly mounted without question of it breaking off. The last task I completed on the Power Wheels car is adjusting the tie rods to the correct length. This was rather a challenging concept since John, Andrew, and I designed the steering geometry. You can also check the archives to see all of what we did to the steering geometry to validate that we had enough steering angle to actually turn the car. With that being said, I originally started out adjusting the tie rods to each be exactly the same length as one another.</div>
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This turned out to not be the case. As I tried to put each tie rod on, at the specified length, they would not fit onto the chassis at all. Not to mention that we were losing steering angle in one direction. So the “easy” but lengthy fix was to adjust each of the tie rods to different lengths that would not only fit but also give us the max steering angle that is geometrically possible. Yes, the problem is solved but it would have been better if we checked the Grashof conditions. In this scenario, a steering column assembly is purely a 4-bar Grashof linkage system. By checking the Grashof conditions as well as doing a couple lines of math we could of then determined the appropriate lengths for the tie rods as well as the coupler on the steering column.</div>
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<i>This diagram demonstrates the one of the many Grashof conditions, but this will help you understand the idea of what I am refering to.</i><br />
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Besides the Power Wheels car I have been working on a couple of side projects/improvements. The most recently completed one was upgrading the our Monoprice 3d printer. I will say that the Monoprice printer has been printing exceptionally well lately, but we decided to push the envelop and try to make it better. In doing so we did a simple z-brace mod. The z-axis of the Monoprice/wanhao 3d printers is very weak despite being made out of metal. We printed 4 floor stands and two z stands that all bolt into the existing holes on the printer. Once assembled, we tried a test print and I will personally say that the mod did help but it for the most part it is hard to notice the improvement on simple parts. I am sure that it will be more obvious on a complex print.<br />
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Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-17331673588190652852018-03-28T01:45:00.001-04:002018-03-28T01:45:56.014-04:00Functional Jet Turbine Project Part 1About a week ago I was shown this video:<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I loved this project! We have made several of those cutaway turbines (I think were at the 5 or 6 count) but they don’t do anything, other than look amazing of course. I looked around to see if the files were ever made available to the public. As it turns out they had not been and so I decided that this was something that we should recreate here in the shop! The plan currently is to iterate through the design until we have something like what is in that video. Currently, I have used some spare Gartt ML3510 700KV motors and 40A ESCs we had as our ‘engine’ and I am reusing the main fain from the popular cutaway turbine model. I quickly rigged up a motor mount and a stand to test whether or not this motor would cause the fan to rip itself apart and printed them out.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hMwpo3SOoZ0/Wrsr1IRb1YI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/w0Bw6Nr_KAU_QowFkoorpgOodAbanPbFACLcBGAs/s1600/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1121" data-original-width="1155" height="310" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hMwpo3SOoZ0/Wrsr1IRb1YI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/w0Bw6Nr_KAU_QowFkoorpgOodAbanPbFACLcBGAs/s320/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After some finagling with the fan stand and some M3 bolts we had I was able to clamp everything down to a table, hook up a radio remote, and test the idea. Now, let me emphasize that spinning this 3D printed fan, at the speeds we need for thrust to be generated, is EXTREMELY dangerous. We made sure no one was close, and we were behind some warehouse racks during the initial test. I made anyone nearby wear safety glasses anytime the motor was plugged in and for good reason, on the fourth or fifth attempt a piece flew off and shattered on the roof of the warehouse. With everything set I used the remote to give it power and it spun in reverse. Not a big deal, a quick swap of the ESC wires and we were good to go. With everything set up we pushed it to the max and you can see the results in the video here:<br />
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After I confirmed that the fan would be able to generate thrust and hold itself together while doing so, I began doing the actual turbine design. The goal for the first iteration of the design will be to just make the fan and motor sit inside an outer cowling.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sTz-ci27r5Q/Wrsr48u1v1I/AAAAAAAAAkU/3wZ5XD4e1yA1ekWSXu7kM22NLHMlRS-aQCLcBGAs/s1600/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1070" data-original-width="1428" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sTz-ci27r5Q/Wrsr48u1v1I/AAAAAAAAAkU/3wZ5XD4e1yA1ekWSXu7kM22NLHMlRS-aQCLcBGAs/s200/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-2.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YiTr_sAEjD8/Wrsr4wtx2XI/AAAAAAAAAkc/MgPr0bn2wOshYvRHVdfYJqKGOEVhTIi0wCLcBGAs/s1600/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1070" data-original-width="1428" height="149" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YiTr_sAEjD8/Wrsr4wtx2XI/AAAAAAAAAkc/MgPr0bn2wOshYvRHVdfYJqKGOEVhTIi0wCLcBGAs/s200/Jet%2BTurbine%2B1-3.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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-AndrewAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-27325950469887855722018-03-14T15:25:00.001-04:002018-03-14T15:26:17.179-04:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 11Hello all! Over the past few weeks I’ve printed out several different iterations of the design and tested their mechanics until I got to a point that I’m comfortable saying that the first version of the design is complete. I know there will most likely need to be some minor edits to this but it’s close enough to work as a good starting point for anyone who would like to get started on their own. I am linking a google drive folder that contains all the parts to download ad play with.<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lHCO_vAFfgywqYFIWytexU1MGKUKrvrW?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lHCO_vAFfgywqYFIWytexU1MGKUKrvrW?usp=sharing</a><br />
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<a name='more'></a>Below are some pictures of the current design.<br />
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-Andrew<br />
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Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-54649711287387840232018-03-08T16:50:00.000-05:002018-03-08T16:51:52.591-05:00Wave Energy Senior Design ProjectThe Boca Bearing Company is currently helping Broc complete his Senior Design Project. Broc is a student at Florida Atlantic University. His project is designed to capture and store wave energy using an air pump system. It requires 3/8" ID flange mounted linear ball bearings.<br />
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The Boca Bearing Company is a proud supporter of innovation through education. For more cool projects, like Broc's click <a href="https://www.bocabearings.com/blogs?TagValue=Boca%20Bearings%20Workshop">here</a>. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-27288453012071322312018-03-07T17:45:00.000-05:002018-03-07T17:47:24.092-05:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 10<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Powerwheels car is close to its first test run! So since the last update I have managed to remount/relocate the motor to a different position so that it would be easier to get the chain on and off. With that being said, we now finally have a mounted chain with the correct tension. We used the standard T8F chain. The gas pedal (throttle) was also mounted to the front of the chassis and that is held in place with two 4” bolts with adjusting nuts on the bottom and nylon lock nuts on top for adjustability.</div>
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The brake pedal was also installed. This was rather interesting as I used leftover materials to assemble the brake. I started off by notching the frame a little in the area that I wanted the pedal to be at. I notched it for the purpose of giving physical support to two 608 bearings. I then put a threaded rod into the two bearings so that it can swivel freely. I then proceeded to cut two pieces of steel that are about 2.5” long each and drilled two holes into each piece. One hole on the bottom for the threaded rod and another hole for the support bolt. The support bolt also has 3 spacers on it to provide a good contact surface between the plates. So the idea now is to just have a link go from the pedal to the master cylinder for the brake, and that will be accomplished by using two ball-joints.<br />
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The steering also went under serious modifications within the past week. So, the steering shaft has been mated with the bearings by going through both of them allowing for about 1.5 feet of bar stock to be sticking out towards the driver. I had to cut down the other end of the shaft as it was too long for our application. I cut and sanded down the end that went to the tie rods and welded the tie rods plate to the shaft.<br />
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The steering “rack” itself also got cut and rewelded as the turning of the wheels were at and angle and this would have caused premature wear of the tires and it wouldn’t provide a good enough turning radius to compensate for the length of the car. I also took the swivel joints of the “rack” off too, and I reoiled them with some Lightning Lube for smooth turning.<br />
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The car also has a seat now. I reused an old and broken office chair for our seating arrangement. The bottom of the chair is bolted onto the chassis in 4 different areas. On the bottom of the car is a steel bar that provides solid compression force that sandwiches the frame between the bottom of the chair and the metal bar. This allows for the bottom of the chair to be adjustable! The backing of our seat was also reused from the same office chair. With a hole saw and a 13” 2x4 piece if wood it made it possible to have it mounted correctly in the X & Y plane. Schedule 40 PVC piping is bolted into the back and frame to provide rigidity in the Z plane for when someone sits.<br />
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I also cut a small piece of plywood to be our flooring for the front of the car too. This it to improve the under-chassis aerodynamics as well as keeping road rubble and water out of the cabin of the car. The electronics should be hooked up next week so we can do our first stress test and maybe our first drive.<br />
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-KurtisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-68158795421335573522018-02-16T19:03:00.003-05:002018-02-16T19:03:35.382-05:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 9The Power Wheels car has deserved a long over due update. Lately I have been busy working on it every chance that I get. From the last update, I’m pretty sure that the frame was not complete, or it was close to being complete. Well, the frame is completely done in terms of being structurally strong. I welded the rest of the seams that needed to be done. I grinded and sanded down the weld spots too.<br />
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After about a month of wait time I finally received the rear sprocket for our chain drive system. All I did was drill holes into the flywheel and put washers in between the flywheel and sprocket so I can space it out enough for the chain to go on.<br />
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Once I mounted the sprocket and flywheel combo to the axle. I then started working on mounting the brake caliper to the frame. On the previous chassis the brake rotor was always in contact with the pads/caliper so I welded on a small bracket that will stand up to the usual forces that it would experience when being driven.<br />
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In addition to receiving the sprocket, I had also received at gokart steering wheel, a gold t8f chain, and a chain breaker tool in the mail.<br />
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With that being said, the progress on the Power Wheels car has picked up quiet substantially. I mounted the motor to the floor board and used nylon spacers to raise the motor up a tad so it would clear part of the frame. Since we are still having clearance problems with the chain we decided to make a chain guide/tensioner in the area where it makes contact.<br />
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As of right now I am expecting to do the first drive/ test run in the next two weeks or so. All that there is left for me to do is to fab up the steering column, mount the chain tensioner, and mount the seat. After that Andrew will then take over with the electronics so we can have it moving.<br />
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-KurtisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-30816919890336225932018-01-23T22:59:00.003-05:002018-01-23T23:00:20.430-05:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 8This past week I have been trying to catch up on the schedule of the Power wheels car. I started off by attempting to finish the structural design of the steering column on the frame. I picked out 0.5inch round hollow tube metal and a steel pipe that I would fit bearings into for the steering shaft. I began to cut and weld the pieces into place. The process was going smoothly, until Andrew began to look for a bearing that would fit the steering shaft and the inside diameter of the steel pipe that I already welded on.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>To our surprise we did not have a bearing on hand that would fit the 1.5 inch diameter steel pipe. This caused a very annoying problem for myself. This meant that all of the grinding, sanding, and welding I did was wasted. I resultantly had to start the deconstruction of what I had just finished.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_03RB9_w7R0/WmgEn2XISoI/AAAAAAAAAgo/n_DL78prydM-PIk2gxct7i7zH0A6dfnPwCLcBGAs/s1600/Weekly%2B8-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_03RB9_w7R0/WmgEn2XISoI/AAAAAAAAAgo/n_DL78prydM-PIk2gxct7i7zH0A6dfnPwCLcBGAs/s320/Weekly%2B8-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once I removed the faulty structure, Andrew and I immediately sourced a proper bearing that would fit our applications. I then went back to the local hardware store to buy a 2 inch inner diameter steel pipe. I had to restart the process of cutting, grinding, sanding, and welding the structure. I started this entire process and I really didn't finish until friday, which is a tad excessive just for a 4 bar structure. This entire process was a lesson well learned. I should always check to make sure that parts/materials are available for me to use before I begin anything. This type of problem falls into the category of design engineering, which as previously proven, is a very important part of an project/idea.<br />
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-KurtisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-29508104149550047452018-01-17T17:39:00.000-05:002018-01-17T17:40:45.347-05:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 7After doing some research I recently discovered that AutoDesk offers their Fusion 360 CAD program for free to hobbyists. So I have decided to switch to Fusion 360 from SolidWorks in the hopes that in doing so other people can more easily recreate, modify, or otherwise explore 3D models that get made in The Workshop. If you are interested in downloading and getting started follow this guide:<br />
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<a href="https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html">https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html</a><br />
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<a name='more'></a>With this in mind I have remade the candy sorting machine in Fusion 360 and will continue on from this point using it. Here are some screen shots of the project as it stands today.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SXSTvlx88IE/Wl_Pi3esjBI/AAAAAAAAAgM/KJDJOsxsnykJMJo66lQ8CmawfFeW3HPJQCLcBGAs/s1600/Weekly%2B7-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1257" height="204" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SXSTvlx88IE/Wl_Pi3esjBI/AAAAAAAAAgM/KJDJOsxsnykJMJo66lQ8CmawfFeW3HPJQCLcBGAs/s320/Weekly%2B7-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This second picture shows the individual components as separate colors which is interesting to look at.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yxj8mouC0yc/Wl_Pl7uaHFI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/ZYyN2LWziTEtnc6y2hNZwAIHDchWW2nJwCLcBGAs/s1600/Weekly%2B7-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1392" height="205" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Yxj8mouC0yc/Wl_Pl7uaHFI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/ZYyN2LWziTEtnc6y2hNZwAIHDchWW2nJwCLcBGAs/s320/Weekly%2B7-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Outside of the redesign I have written code that reads in color from Adafruit’s color sensor (<a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1334">https://www.adafruit.com/product/1334</a>) and then turns a neopixel rgb led strip (<a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/2832">https://www.adafruit.com/product/2832</a>) that color. The next step in the build will be to test the mechanics of the design and once they get verified I will add the final details into the models and publish them. Stay tuned!<br />
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-AndrewAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-52479736101523981062018-01-13T02:41:00.002-05:002018-01-13T02:42:05.112-05:00Boca Bearings Workshop Weekly Update 6Our old Powerwheels chassis has taken a beating over the past two years now. With that being said, the team decided to create a new chassis and retire the old one. The layout of the new frame is a rather simple design, yet it is structurally sound enough to get the job done. The rear end of the old frame will still be used in our newer since it seemed to be the only part of the old chassis that was not bent or structurally defected.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Andrew, John, and I priced out majority of the important parts, just to make sure that we fit within the budget of 500 dollars for the competition. The following days were then used to gather all the the materials and tools needed. I went to home depot to purchase 4 1 inch square steel stock and I also grabbed my Lincoln Electric welder. Opposed to the previous chassis design, we will be welding most of the frame together. Keep in mind, I am by no means a professional or good welder. I am at best a mediocre welder since welding is an art that takes years of practice.<br />
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Once John came to a final conclusion on the layout of the frame. It was then my turn to prep and weld the frame together which took about a 2 week process roughly. The prep work for welding is what takes the longest amount of time. So the first thing I did was take the angle grinder with a flap wheel and I sanded all the ends of the metal stock at the points of where they will be welded at. This prep is very important for any welder for the simple fact that it helps a welder produce clean welds, and it is a safety precaution. This prep takes off enough metal and removes and harmful chemicals that could be covering the stock. After I finished Sanding and grinding the ends of the stock. I then began to weld the stock to the existing rear frame section from the previous chassis.<br />
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I gathered all the tools and safety equipment that would be necessary for the process such as a welding helmet, gloves, welding tent, and a welding magnet. I made my own makeshift welding tent from some of the leftover posters we had in the shop here. Then warmed my machine up and began to setup the stock and the existing rear end together using the welding magnet. I used the flat side of the welding magnet to get both pieces of the metal to sit flush with each other when physically connected.<br />
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I begin the welding process by doing tack welds in small areas where the two pieces of metal join at. Once I check to make sure that both metal pieces or still flush with each other, I then begin to finish the welding process by closing up every gap between the metals. By this point, I now have completed the total length of the new chassis using just two out of the four pieces of metal stock.<br />
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To my dismay, I found out that my welding process did not generate a straight frame. How did this happen? So, consequently when welding you are heating the metal up to extremely hot temperatures. These temperatures are so hot that it can warp and melt the metal and that is exactly what happened to me. So the two longest pieces of metal stock are less than straight on the frame. The good part is that they weren't warped enough to the point of having to redo the welding.<br />
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I then began to cut and grind the existing pieces of metal stock to complete the frame by adding cross bars and torsion support bars. By adding these extra bars, this resultantly pulled the frame back to a near straight frame. Straight enough for our purposes that is.<br />
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I then proceeded to drill holes for the steering rack and mounted the wheels on.<br />
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-KurtisAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-6747766993039916292017-12-27T17:26:00.001-05:002017-12-27T17:26:35.057-05:00Maker Faire Orlando 2017 - Part 2Ever since attending the Mini-Maker Faire in Miami this year I have been thoroughly excited for Orlando’s event. There were so many cool projects and people this year and it was awesome being able to see everything that was on display. There were three things that really stood out as I browsed the Faire. Outside of the Workshop I am the president of a robotics club at a local university, and so it should come as no surprise that my favorite things to check out were all the amazing robotics being shown. From FTC builds to Battle Bots, Astro droids to Repair Droids there were all amazing. Two robots in particular that stood out to me were the Renaissance Robotics FTC build and steampunk R2 Droid.<br />
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The other standout experience for me was the Power Racing Series competition. Seeing the creativity and competitiveness of those teams was cool and being able to participate was an awesome experience. My favorite car was the Weinermobile.</div>
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The way it lofted around the track and the sheer size of it compared to everything else made it a hilarious joy to watch I think this slow-motion video really captures the feeling well.<br />
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The whole weekend was fantastic and I can’t wait to do it again!</div>
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-Andrew</div>
Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-62913263704992738712017-12-22T17:29:00.002-05:002017-12-22T17:29:52.216-05:00Maker Faire Orlando 2017 - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIQluvcndeE/Wj2HEKNv1KI/AAAAAAAAAek/OFrgjfg1o_AL9kJ80oLEeHfpWCPDS4tQwCLcBGAs/s1600/maker%2Bfaire%2Borlando%2B1-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="155" data-original-width="1043" height="57" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIQluvcndeE/Wj2HEKNv1KI/AAAAAAAAAek/OFrgjfg1o_AL9kJ80oLEeHfpWCPDS4tQwCLcBGAs/s400/maker%2Bfaire%2Borlando%2B1-1.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Maker faire Orlando was an absolute blast to attend. It was amazing to see all the different forms of creativity that went into what everyone had to show. There were different types of computer builds, circuitry, physics projects, and so many different forms of art. I personally was keeping track of the Powerwheels competition that was held at Maker Faire. Each day of Maker Faire encompassed a different race/event for the Powerwheels competition. The first day of Maker Faire required that all the racers had to do preliminary qualifications, three sprint races, and a moxie lap.<br />
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The first part of the Powerwheels race for Saturday started off with the qualifications lap. Now since this was Boca Bearings second time doing this competition so I was not worried about qualifying too much. This then turns out the be my downfall since my first lap did not qualify due to not being able to brake within 8-10 foot distance. So, on the second lap I could qualify by being able to brake within the 8 feet (tires were wet the first time). After the qualifying, there was roughly an hour break until the next event, which was the moxie lap. Now “moxie” is term used in the Powerwheels race to describe how much style and character each team/car has. So Jay, and I did the moxie skit together. Our theme was based on the “Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy”, this then called for Jay and I the dress up in costume. I myself was Zarphod Beeblebrox and Jay was a mad scientist/ bartender. Jay got out and made me a crazy drink out of gummy worms, dry ice, and raspberry juice (all of which was in disguise) on the track and then I made a slow lap around the track in style with the theme music. While doing this lap I accidentally broke our brake handle off. Absolutely no one noticed that I was brakeless the entire time so I coasted into the pits like nothing happened. After the moxie lap we then about an hour and a half till the sprint races. This meant an hour and a half for us to get a working brake handle. Looked around for anything that I could possibly use to bolt up for a brake handle and the best thing I could of possibly came up with was small piece of metal with holes in it, with two bolts going through it, one of which did not have a nut on the end. Then to top it all off, we then decided to clamp some vise grips too it for added strength (which later worked out pretty good). Once that problem was solved we then started the set of sprint races. The first sprint race went very well considering how we placed third on podium. The second sprint race didn’t go so well since we lost all battery power from the first race and we did not even finish. However, the third race was a success since we grabbed some extra batteries and took the silver in 2nd place.<br />
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The following day (Sunday) was nothing more than a Powerwheels parade and the ultimate Endurance race. The Parade went well since we had freshly recharged batteries. After the parade was the Endurance race. The endurance was comprised of a 75-min race that required multiple driver switches. We started off the endurance race very strong and then many things happened to our car. The first problem we encountered was that the batteries started dying after the 18th lap. So, we went into the pits to swap the batteries with some fresh ones. Afterwards we then did one driver swap and then ran into another problem which was that our 3-d printed steering handle broke so we went into pits and set the steering back to the old way and swap drivers. Once that problem was fixed, we then ran into the issue of our throttle breaking off and getting stuck into position so we had to literally “brake” our way into pits. By that point in time our car was very beat in many ways. All of us melt burning plastic, tires were low on air and the batteries were at some unknown level of juice. So, we did one last driver swap and fixed the throttle. We could complete a couple laps before the batteries died and then had to call it off since we ran out of batteries.<br />
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-Kurtis<br />
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Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8408895568636562379.post-12424591658812477382017-12-14T16:56:00.003-05:002017-12-14T16:57:18.652-05:00Hybridized Garrett Boca Bearings Turbine - Part 3I have been extremely busy in the workshop recently and trying to make more progress on the turbine has slowed down a bit since most of the turbine unit is disassembled. The last part of disassembly of the turbine deals mainly with the CHRA and removing the journal bearings completely. Tools necessary for the task:<br />
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1. Small snap ring pliers<br />
2. Patience<br />
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For the most part, the turbine shaft and all spinning components have been removed from the CHRA. Now is the time to remove the “bearings” that are within the housings. First, I located all of the snap rings that held the bearings in place and removed them with too small electrical scalpels. Side note, this is most definitely not the correct tool but it was what I had at the moment and I could not wait. The proper tool for removing the snap rings are small snap ring pliers. When the snap rings are removed the bearings will simply slide out and if not a little ‘jimmy-ing’ will do the trick to getting them out. Once the bearings were removed, I dunked the compressor, wheel turbine shaft and CHRA into the hot tank to remove old oil and dirt that has been on the unit for 30 years or so. I’m sure that by now most of you have notice that they aren’t bearings really bearings, but more like brass bushings that spin.</div>
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With that being said, this brings us back to my first post where I talked about friction coefficients, and efficiencies. This turbine exceeds 100k rpm when in use as well as seeing temperatures of 400 degrees Fahrenheit or more. These factors have a huge impact on these small brass ‘bearings’. As most of us know, when a metal is exposed to heat it tends to have slightly different properties and tolerances (usually expansion occurs). When this brass journal bearing is exposed to heat and radial motion the bearing wants to expand, and this relatively is not a good thing since it has the chance to expand too much and this will cause the turbine unit to cease up and stop moving. This failure point will then cause other problems to the motor it is attached to. From the manufacturer they route coolant and oil lines into the CHRA to help reduce the friction between the bearings and the housing and to keep the temperatures lower. As previously stated this creates new failure points for a turbine.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_00jbmh-Eg4/WjLzODZsx9I/AAAAAAAAAd8/Da8emlagktoV77GUPQfJKgzkQokfFcl7gCLcBGAs/s1600/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_00jbmh-Eg4/WjLzODZsx9I/AAAAAAAAAd8/Da8emlagktoV77GUPQfJKgzkQokfFcl7gCLcBGAs/s320/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the complete tear down being finished, I can do the rebuild with “new” technology. Let’s start with the new bearing replacements:<br />
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Name: GRW D688/602C</div>
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ABEC: #7<br />
Bore diameter: 8mm<br />
Outer Diameter: 16 mm<br />
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These are just the general specifications of the new GRW bearing. I have provided a link for the full data sheet of the bearing itself for further details. Besides the physical attributes of the new bearing, it can meet the requirement <b>180k rpm WITH ONLY GREASE</b>, and the bearing can withstand <b>440 degrees Fahrenheit</b>. This resultantly means that the bearings do not need oil for lubrication. This bearing is a perfect candidate for the job since it exceeds the rpm and temperature that the turbine can produce in max conditions. I can dive deeper into the reasons, math, and material science to explain how such a bearing is capable of this astounding accomplishment; but a simple answer to explain it all is ceramic material. This GRW bearing also does not have an inner race either! The removal of the inner race allows the bearing to exceed higher rpms! You may ask why and how this allows it to spin faster. Yet again the answer is simple, no inner race allows for the balls to spin more freely and the that’s one less object to spin! Such a simple idea that allows for a huge success in performance.<br />
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Oh and one last bit of information, as stated in the previous post I broke the old turbine shaft and resultantly I bought a new OEM one from online that shipped from Australia (took long enough to get here). So now that I got the shaft and the housing completely disassembled, I can now make a trip the machine shop to have a few mm shaved off the shaft and the inside of the housing.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ahb0kuYqwrc/WjLzZvMsq7I/AAAAAAAAAeI/GwX8WH78utQVXy7EGi-77FLGifJZ7ky3ACLcBGAs/s1600/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ahb0kuYqwrc/WjLzZvMsq7I/AAAAAAAAAeI/GwX8WH78utQVXy7EGi-77FLGifJZ7ky3ACLcBGAs/s320/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yrFVXJVwtHw/WjLzZZknvGI/AAAAAAAAAeE/fD85Pt8-cRoA9KT6TGXtc3kmWlyWOBG6gCLcBGAs/s1600/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yrFVXJVwtHw/WjLzZZknvGI/AAAAAAAAAeE/fD85Pt8-cRoA9KT6TGXtc3kmWlyWOBG6gCLcBGAs/s320/Hybridized%2BGarrett%2B3-5.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Data Sheet:<br />
<a href="https://www.bocabearings.com/Files/Images/drawings/D688-602C.pdf">https://www.bocabearings.com/Files/Images/drawings/D688-602C.pdf</a><br />
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-Kurtis</div>
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